Work as many rows or starting chains as you like; the bigger, the better!
Use different colors for each row, or just for the last row.
Work with 2 different yarns held together - great use of fuzzy, eyelash, thin, slinky, or other novelty yarn.
Decrease your n (inc more frequently) in the last 2-3 rows to create a slight ruffle.
Add a picot trim (ch 3 between each sc) in the last row or 2 to create more ruffle.
Crochet over a pipe cleaner (or other wire) to force your tentacles into a stiff or straight position.
Use starch or Elmer's glue to stiffen items such as lace fans or sprays.
Stuff cylindrical objects with craft stuffing, cotton balls, bubble wrap, etc.
Create your own marine life shapes that are not necessarily hyperbolic, such as branches, pillars, and sea fans. The orange piece looks like a clam shell with tentacles They all work!
Foundation row: Ch 21, turn.
Rows 1-15 (or more): Work (1 sc in each of next 3 stitches, increase in next stitch) across. Ch 1, turn.
For great effect, work one final row in contrast yarn. Fasten off.
We call this "n=4" because you're increasing in every 4th stitch. You can make a larger piece by starting with ch 31 and increasing every 6th stitch. If you prefer dc, increase in every 2nd or 3rd stitch.
To make pillars, start at the bottom with a pancake:
Round 1: Ch 4, join with slip stitch to 1st chain to form a ring. Work 4 sc into ring.
Round 2: Work 2 sc in each sc (total 8 sc).
Round 3: Work 2 sc in each sc (total 16 sc).
Round 4: * Work 1 sc in next sc, work 2 sc in next sc; continue from * around (total 24 sc).
To form sides, work even: 1 sc in each sc (total 24 sc) and continue until you reach the desired length.
Stop and stuff the pillar (with cardboard circles, fiberfill/pillow stuffing, or a plastic object) and then begin to decrease.
Decrease round 1: *Work 1 sc in each of 2 sc, work next 2 sc together; continue from * around (total 18 sc).
Decrease round 2: *Work 1 sc in next sc, work next 2 sc together; continue from * around (total 12 sc).
Decrease round 3: *Work 2 sc together; continue from * around (total 6 sc). Slip stitch in 3rd stitch from hook. Cut yarn, draw through remaining loop, and tuck away.
Variations: change the diameter or height of your pillar.
To make a larger starting pancake, keep adding the same number of stitches in each round, such as
[Round 5: * Work 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, work 2 sc in next sc;
Round 6: * Work 1 sc in each of next 3 sc, work 2 sc in next sc; etc.]
To change the shape, try increasing or decreasing a few stitches in relevant rows. Lots of trial and error here!
To make a tapered pillar, work more rounds (at least 6, depending on thickness of yarn) of a starting pancake.
Next 2 rounds: work even.
Next round: decrease 4 stitches evenly around. To decrease: draw up a loop in one stitch, draw up a loop in the next stitch, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook.
Next 4 rounds: work even.
Next round: decrease 4 stitches evenly around.
Next 4 rounds: work even.
Next round: decrease 4 stitches evenly around.
Stop and stuff the pillar before the opening gets too small!
Next 2 rounds: work even.
Next round: decrease 4 stitches evenly around.
Continue as needed to achieve the desired shape. Stop and stuff before the final 2 rows -- be sure to end pancake-like rather than pointy.
Have fun with your yarn! Use up your scraps!
Left: create stripes with different colored yarns.
Top: when you run out, tie on a different yarn.
Bottom: use a variegated (or other fancy) yarn in the last row.
The last row of this large coral was crocheted with 5 different balls!
For a lacy openwork look, work (1 dc, ch 2) in place of each sc. Ignore the chains in the previous row; keep working dc over dc. Make sure the last row has (dc, ch 2, dc, ch2) in each stitch for extra fullness.
© 2011 Denise Beaubien Bennett
Photos above are of the same sphere. At top, it is laid flat and looks like restaurant garnish. At bottom, the center is poked down and the outer row rises to look like brain coral.
Foundation: ch 4, sl st in 1st ch to form a ring.
Round 1: ch 1, 6 sc in the ring (or whatever works with your yarn); ch 1.
Rounds 2-15 (or more): Work (3 sc in each of next 3 stitches, increase in next stitch) around. Work at least 18 rounds. At least 15-20 rounds are needed for full convolution. Fasten off.
This basic pattern creates a pseudosphere for n=4 (inc in each 4th st.) Vary your n as desired. Increasing every 2nd stitch makes a compact ball quickly.
Add a picot trim (ch 3 between each sc) in the last row or 2 to create more ruffle.
Row 1: Crochet a chain that is twice as long (maybe a little extra) as you want the finished coil.
Row 2: Sl st in 2nd chain from hook. Work 3 sc in each chain across. At the end, sl st into the chain of the previous coil. Fasten off.
Variations:
Work another row, maybe in another color, of 2 sc in each stitch across.
Work in dc for a longer, wider, looser look.
Vary your stitches around the coil (sc to hdc to dc to tr and down again) to alter the widths.
Make a round base (2-3 rounds) and work one coil out of each sc in base. At the end of each coil, sl st into the next base sc to begin another coil. On a large base (think jellyfish), sc into several base stiches between coils/legs.
For tendrils, work 2 sc in 1st several stitches. When you have enough of a coil started, continue with 1 sc in each ch. To keep them straighter at the stem, chain out in one hook size larger than the one you use to crochet back.
A tube sponge is composed of several tubes, a base top that is dome-shaped, and a base bottom that is pancake-shaped.
For each tube: Ch 14, join with slip stitch to first chain to form a ring. Work one sc in each ch around. Continue working even, one sc in each sc, for desired length of pillar. Work last round in a different color -- try a smaller hook to draw the top in. Vary your starting chain (12 or 16 ch) to make pillars of varying circumferences. Make about 12.
For the base top:
Ch 6, sl st in 1st ch to form a ring.
Round 1: 1 sc in each ch.
Round 2: 2 sc in each sc.
Round 3: *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * around; end 18 sc.
Round 4: *1 sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * around; end 24 sc.
Round 5: *1 sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * around; end 30 sc.
Round 6: work even (30 sts)
Round 7: *1 sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * around; end 36 sc.
Round 8: *1 sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * around; end 42 sc.
Round 9: *1 sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * around; end 48 sc.
Round 10: *1 sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * around; end 54 sc.
Round 11: work even (54 sts)
Round 12: *1 sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * around; end 60 sc.
Round 13: *1 sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * around; end 66 sc.
Round 14: *1 sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * around; end 72 sc.
End off.
For the base bottom:
Ch 6, sl st in 1st ch to form a ring.
Round 1: 1 sc in each ch.
Round 2: 2 sc in each sc.
Round 3: *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * around; end 18 sc.
Round 4: *1 sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * around; end 24 sc.
Round 3: *1 sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * around; end 30 sc.
Work in pattern (increasing 6 sts in each round) for 12 rounds (72 sc). End off.
Finishing:
With yarn (blunt) needle, sew each tube onto the base top. Match the base bottom (facing top down) to the base top, and sl st the bottom and top together about 3/4 of the way around. Stop and lightly stuff the base. Continue in sl st to close the base. Stuff the tubes about 1/2 to 2/3 full.
© 2011 Denise Beaubien Bennett
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